Three fortifications made up the old fortress built on top of the hill known as Cerro de Santa Catalina: the Alcázar Viejo (Old Fortress), built during the reign of King Alhamar; the Abrehui castle; and the Alcázar Nuevo (New Fortress), which Fernando III gave orders to build in the 13th century. Of the three, only the latter one remains. Its original structure is more or less intact, whereas the first two were torn down in the mid-20th century to build the Parador Nacional de Turismo (a state-owned hotel). Currently the Parador is considered one of the best castle-hotels in Europe.

Napoleon’s troops turned the fortress into a huge barracks or stronghold from which to wield strict control over most of the province and the strategic Sierra Morena mountain passes, in particular. To that end, accommodation for the regular troops, stables, dungeons, offices, powder magazines and even a fifty-bed hospital were distributed among the three fortresses. We know about what happened in those years thanks to the ruins that are still standing, the plans of the fortresses and a few photographs made at the turn of the 19th century.

In any event, what can be seen of the Castle of Santa Catalina today is more similar to the way it looked in the Middle Ages than after the changes made by the French army. The layout of the fortress you can visit now is almost triangular and defended by six towers. The Torre del Homenaje rises to a height of 40 metres. Next to it stand the Torre de las Damas (Ladies Tower), which protects the entrance to the Castle; two defensive towers (one of which houses the chapel of Santa Catalina, the city’s patron); the Torre de la Vela (Watch Tower), where fires were lit on the flat roof to send signals to other defensive posts in the surrounding area; and the Torre de las Troneras (Embrasure Tower). Here we come to another of the fortress’ curious elements, for the tower had been used as a latrine since the Middle Ages. Latrines were not a very common feature in medieval castles, and the Frenchmen decided to use the tower for the this purpose.

Moreover, the latest excavations carried out in the area revealed that there had been a palace or royal household quarters inside the Arab fortress. Some decorative elements were found, as well as traces of the transformations the castle underwent throughout various historical periods. At times, some of the rooms were used not only for residential purposes but also to house the administrative areas or as the workplace for state employees.

Currently, the castle boasts a Visitor Centre that recreates a large part of its evolution and the history of Jaén. The city offers an opportunity to end a magnificent day with a visit to the cathedral, a crown jewel of the Andalusian Renaissance, the largest Arab baths in Europe, and the most important collection of Iberian sculptures, which are exhibited in the Provincial Archaeological Museum.