The battleground can be spotted from the Museum’s tower-viewpoint. What is now a beautiful landscape of holm oaks and pine woods was the scene of one of the bloodiest battles in history 800 years ago. In play, the struggle to make a culture, and more specifically, a religion prevail. It was the sword against the sabre; the Cross against the Crescent. The Battle of Navas de Tolosa is considered to be one of the decisive battles in Spanish history. In the Visitor Centre, you can learn more about the key aspects of the confrontation that marked the beginning of the end of Moorish rule in Spain. After the Navas battle, Al-Andalus fractured. Independent kingdoms known as taifas began to proliferate, giving the Christian advance a fresh impulse.

Opened in 2009, the Museum of the Battle of Navas de Tolosa is located on the outskirts of the town of Santa Elena, in Jaén province. Take exit 257 on the Autovía de Andalucía motorway to reach the Museum, which boasts well-designed modern facilities with the latest museum technology. Everything in the Museum is designed to explain the events of 1212 in an educational, original and interactive manner. Modern scenography, audiovisuals, panels and exhibits enable visitors to discover every aspect of the battle: the attire, weapons, camps and supply trains, and, of course, the battle itself. All the foregoing, of course, presented with an approach whose primary intention is to provoke a reflection on peace and the need to promote a culture of dialogue and respect for multiculturality.

The Museum offers guided tours of the exhibition, commented and interpreted by guides who are experts on the battle. Special tours are available for school groups. The Museum also organises outdoor activities that make the visit even more attractive. These include walks around the battleground (a 9 kilometre itinerary of three hours duration, low difficulty); or through the Natural Park of Despeñaperros, following several trails that run through the mountains, where you can observe the area’s abundant plants and wildlife. In some cases, the paths lead to other spots of special interest, such as the castle of Castro Ferral; the Muladar Pass (a 4 hour hike, medium to low difficulty), to see the remains of a Roman road known as “el empedraillo” (the cobbled way); and an Iberian sanctuary, like the Cueva de los Muñecos (the Dolls Cave).

The battle

Considered one of the most important battles in the conquest of Al-Andalus, the Battle of Navas de Tolosa was, on principle, just one more battle promoted by the kingdom of Castile to claw territory away from the formerly prosperous Moorish kingdom. However, two events gave further thrust to the Christians’ plans. King Alfonso VIII managed to encourage Pope Innocent III to declare that the campaign against the Almohads was a Crusade. Thus, crusaders from across Europe and knights from all the military orders joined the king’s forces. In addition, the need to show a common front against the Arabs made the Christian kingdoms forget their territorial conflicts. The people of Aragon and Navarre also joined forces to back the Castilian king.

They faced the Almohad troops, lead by the Caliph Al-Nasir, whose plans were not only to strengthen and expand Arab rule to all of Spain but even to reach Rome. The differences between the two armies were evident, with regard to equipment, weapons and military tactics. In Navas, the Christians employed a combat strategy very similar to the one deployed by the crusaders in the Holy Land. The reservists, led by the Christian kings, played a particularly important role by attacking the Arabs when they tried to circle the main body. The attack became known as the “charge of the three kings”. The Almohad strategy was simple and effective: to wear out and disorganise the enemy, and then attack them and give them the coup de grace.

The outcome of the confrontation was a Christian victory, thousands of dead on the battleground, and a mortal blow to the exhausted pillars of the Moorish empire. According to the chronicles, Al-Nasir never recovered from the disaster of Navas de Tolosa. He abdicated in favour of his son and died two years later, perhaps poisoned. For the Christians, however, the battle only brought a breath of hope for their plans. After that, they continued the incursions, laying waste to and taking towns and castles. The key to entering Andalusia was already in their hands, which would make it much easier for Fernando III to conquer the Guadalquivir valley years later.